An Oldie but a Goodie
- Ryan O'Hern
- Feb 7, 2016
- 2 min read

The next time you are at a large grocer, reflect on how similar the meat is from week to week. Rarely are the steaks a great deal bigger or smaller than previous weeks. The thickness, the cutting method, and cut choices are identical. The flavor is consistent, the producer is consistent, and the production model is a finely oiled machine.
Isn't this what the consumer demands? A consistent product at consistently low prices? Perhaps our meat-eating cutlture has become not to different from what our coffee culture used to be. We expect a Folgers flavor profile from our beef, pork, and lamb and are not able to appreciate the spectrum of eating experiences that are beyond that.
There's nothing inherently wrong with a Folgers flavor profile if that's what you prefer. But it's an unfortunate outcome if it floods the market to such a degree that it obfuscates any other coffee experience.
The advice of butcher, author, and father Adam Danforth inspired me to buy an older beef animal this year to fill my family's freezer (that days work can be seen in the picture above). This three year old animal contrasted markedly from the industry standard 16-20 month old animal. It's bones and muscles were significantly longer and more narrow. Well suited to be a basketball player.
Normally an animal like this would be sold as ground beef. On butchery day we cooked several cuts to get a yardstick measure of it's taste, and were pleasantly surprised. It was incredibly flavorful and still tender enough to be used for the classic steaks. We come away optimistic about the flavor promise that older animals have to offer.
As eaters, omnivores, and butchers, we have the power to steer demand away from the conformity of the assembly line industrial meat production model. Every animal has different genetics, and every farmer contributes a unique outcome. Only good things can come from the landscape of flavors available to us when we ask our farmers to create an unconvential product.
Older animals will be less tender, but more flavorful. This one turned out to be tender enough to produce enjoyable tenderloin, ny strip, and ribeye.

The joints were knobbier, good for making bone broth.

The ribs were longer, though much less meaty.

Comments